Florence, Italy
FOR THOSE seeking TUSCAN SUNSETS, DUOMO VISTAS, AND THE ARTISTIC spirit of FIRENZE
Firenze will always hold a piece of my heart. As a junior in college, I made the decision to pack my bags and study abroad in Italy - Florence to be specific. I did not grow up in a family that traveled much, so this was a big decision for me and one that I am forever grateful to. This is where my love for travel really blossomed, and something that has stayed a big part of my life since. Little did I know that ten years later, I would return to say “I do” in front of fifty of our favorite people. To walk my husband and my mom past my old student apartment during our wedding weekend felt like the ultimate full circle moment. Having now explored Firenze across three different chapters of my life, I’ve curated this guide to help you fall in love with the city just as I did.
Welcome to firenze
Arrival: If you are flying internationally, Amerigo Vespucci (FLR) is the local airport, located just 20 minutes from the city center. However, many travelers fly into Pisa (PSA) or Rome (FCO) and take the train—the national railway system is incredibly robust and efficient. Arriving at the Santa Maria Novella (SMN) train station puts you right in the heart of the city.
The Layout: To get to your stay, you can easily grab a taxi from the queue outside the station (note: Uber operates differently in Italy and is often more expensive than local cabs). If you’re planning a road trip through Tuscany, you can pick up a rental car, but I recommend doing so as you leave the city to avoid ZTL (restricted driving zones).
A Quick Tip for Rentals: Double-check your transmission type! Manuals are the standard in Italy. As I learned the hard way, they may not have an automatic available if you haven't specifically reserved one. (Thank goodness my husband can drive a manual!)
Where to Stay
Grand Hotel Minerva: Located in the iconic Piazza Santa Maria Novella, which is the same Piazza I lived in when I was abroad, this hotel blends sophisticated luxury with a fresh, contemporary edge. This is where we stayed before our wedding weekend and is the perfect ultra-chic home base if you want to be steps away from the train station and walkable to main attractions like the Duomo. The crown jewel is the rooftop—home to one of the few pools in the city center and a sky bar that offers a "see-and-be-seen" vibe with 360-degree views of the Florentine skyline.
Villa Cora: Perched on the hills near Piazzale Michelangelo, this 19th-century villa is a visual masterpiece. Stay here if you want an elevated, resort-style escape that feels worlds away from the city bustle, yet is just a short shuttle ride from the heart of town.
Villa San Michele, A Belmond Hotel: This is the ultimate "splurge" destination for those seeking a serene, ultra-luxurious sanctuary. With its tiered Italian gardens and a pool carved directly into the Fiesole hillside, it is high on my personal bucket list. After an unforgettable stay at the Belmond La Residencia in Mallorca, I can only imagine how incredible their Florentine sister property must be.
Cellai Boutique Hotel: Tucked away in the quiet, authentic San Lorenzo district, this boutique hotel surprised us in the best way. We discovered this hidden gem by accident after a canceled flight, and it turned out to be one of our favorite surprises in Firenze. They managed to offer an affordable price point without sacrificing an ounce of style. It’s the perfect choice for those seeking an intimate, romantic home base that feels more like a sophisticated private residence than a standard hotel.
the gelato edit
Gelateria dei Neri: Hands down, my favorite gelato shop in the city. It was my very last scoop before flying home a decade ago and my very first stop when I returned last spring. Their salted caramel is what dreams are made of; it has a rich, velvety consistency that feels more like a decadent sauce than a traditional gelato. Truly heavenly.
La Carraia: Widely renowned in Firenze for good reason. On our recent visit, the coconut and the pistachio white chocolate were the standout stars. There is something undeniably magical about strolling over the bridge with a cone in hand, watching the sun hit the Arno—it’s a quintessential Florence experience.
Vivoli: Famous on TikTok for its wine window and renowned affogatos, Vivoli often sparks the question: Is it worth the wait? To me, this depends on your priorities. My husband is a coffee aficionado, so this was his absolute favorite treat in Firenze. For me, I understand the allure but I wouldn't spend hours in line for it. We were lucky to visit in April when the queue was manageable; however, if the crowd is overwhelming, I’d recommend opting for one of the more "under-the-radar" gems mentioned above.
Panini Favorites
All’Antico Vinaio: If you’ve researched the Firenze food scene, you’ve undoubtedly seen this panini shop - it is arguably the most viral spot in the city. As I mentioned in my Rome guide, I’m usually a skeptic when it comes to TikTok-famous restaurants. However, All’Antico was doing it right long before the internet found them. Even ten years later, I still crave their signature panino with finocchiona (Tuscan fennel salami), eggplant, and pecorino spread. It truly lives up to the hype. Go right when they open to help avoid the wildly long queue that can form throughout the day.
Il Girone del Ghiotto: This spot is known for being a bit more of a "hidden gem" compared to the viral spots in town and was my husband’s absolute favorite panino in Firenze. He ordered the porchetta with "the works," and honestly, he hasn’t stopped raving about it seven months later.
La Schiacciata delle Neri: These were perhaps the most substantial panini we had in Firenze. They place a true emphasis on simple, high-quality local ingredients that let the flavors speak for themselves. If you’re looking for a hearty, authentic meal that doesn’t cut corners on quality, this is your spot.
Lunch & Dinner (Reservations recommended)
Osteria Quattro Leoni: Tucked away in the charming Piazza della Passera, Quattro Leoni is an Oltrarno institution. While the entire menu is stellar, the Fiocchetti di pera (pear-filled pasta in a creamy taleggio sauce) was my favorite dish that lives up to every bit of its fame. It’s the perfect spot for a long lunch or a candle-lit dinner in one of the most picturesque corners of Firenze.
Trattoria Zaza: Located right in Piazza del Mercato Centrale, ZàZà is vibrant, bustling, and unapologetically fun. The menu is massive - specializing in everything from truffle-laden pastas to thick Florentine steaks. It’s a great choice if you’re traveling with a group or want a lively dinner right in the thick of the city’s energy. We loved the Spaghetti alla ZàZà—almost like a vodka sauce but driven by the melted mozzarella and high-quality Tuscan tomatoes.
Vini e Vecchi Sapori: This is an intimate, family-run trattoria just steps from Piazza della Signoria, and it’s a favorite for those who want authentic, home-cooked Tuscan food. There are no "tourist menus" here—just hand-written daily specials and incredible flavors. Be sure to book ahead, as its small size and stellar reputation make it one of the hardest reservations to get in the city. Their ravioli and beef carpaccio were out of this world.
Osteria Santo Spirito: Sitting on the edge of the lively Piazza Santo Spirito, this osteria is the heart and soul of the Oltrarno. It’s famous for its baked truffle gnocchi—served bubbling hot in a terracotta dish. Grab a table outside and an Aperol Spritz to people-watch in the square and soak in the local spirit that defines this neighborhood. Tip: wait longer than you think before eating the gnocchi—it comes out scalding hot.
Gusta Pizza (doesn’t take reservations): Gusta Pizza is all about the wood-fired oven and the perfect crust. Expect a line of locals and travelers alike spilling out into the street. The move here is to grab your pizza (they can make it shaped like a heart if you ask!) and head to the steps of the Santo Spirito church or along the Arno to enjoy it like a true Florentine.
Top Local Experiences
Piazzale Michelangelo: If you do one thing in Florence, it needs to be visiting Piazzale Michelangelo at sunset. Grab a bottle of wine and some charcuterie and aim to get there 30-ish minutes before sundown to enjoy the view to the backdrop of live music playing on the steps. Fun fact: This is where we found the folk duo that played at our Italian wedding welcome party. They were playing on our pre-wedding Italy planning trip, and we loved them so much we booked them for our wedding weekend.
Firenze Rose Garden: You’d be remiss not to take a stroll through the Firenze Rose Garden on your way up to Piazzale Michelangelo. We stumbled upon this on our recent visit, and I was shocked that I hadn't heard more about this hidden gem prior. It is the perfect detour that offers a much more peaceful ascent to the viewpoint, featuring rows of stunning roses and a breathtaking, unobstructed view of the Duomo.
Duomo: It’s impossible to miss the Duomo while strolling the streets of Firenze. This stunning church dominates the city center with its imposing and ornate facade. I, personally, have not climbed to the top of the Duomo, as I have always been content to admire it from afar, but many enjoy that as a tourist attraction
Ponte Vecchio: Taking a walk over the Ponte Vecchio is a quintessential Florentine experience. Today, the bridge is famous for the plethora of glittering shop windows belonging to traditional goldsmiths and jewelers. Whether you are looking for a unique piece of 18k gold to take home or simply want to window shop while the sun sets over the Arno, it is a must-see landmark that perfectly captures the artisan spirit of Firenze.
Boboli Gardens: Located directly behind the Pitti Palace, the Boboli Gardens are the perfect escape from the narrow city streets. This sprawling, 16th-century Italian garden is filled with grand sculptures, ornate fountains, and hidden grottos. It’s a bit of a climb, but the views of the rolling Tuscan hills from the upper terraces are absolutely worth the effort.
The David: No trip to Firenze is complete without visiting the Accademia Gallery to see Michelangelo’s David in person. Even if you’ve seen a thousand photos, nothing prepares you for the sheer scale and intricate detail of the real thing.
Tip: This is one of the most popular sites in the world, so booking your tickets well in advance is a non-negotiable if you want to avoid hours of waiting. Also, I’d recommend booking your tours for the first time slot in the morning. Not only does this help you beat the heavy crowds and midday heat, but it also lets you get your "history fix" early so your afternoon is free for wandering and leisure.
Mercato Centrale: There is truly no better way to see a city than through its food. This bustling two-story market is a culinary mecca; the ground floor is a traditional market where locals shop for fresh produce and meats, while the upstairs is a modern food hall. It’s the perfect way to discover hidden neighborhood gems and taste everything from local cheeses to fresh pasta while soaking in the history of the district.
Tip: Get a bag of cantucci (Italian biscotti) at the stall in the back left of the upstairs food hall, near the culinary school—this was the best cantucci we had on our whole trip. We gifted bags of these to our guests for our Italian wedding weekend.
Food Tour: As a foodie, my favorite type of tour to do while traveling is a food tour. I’d recommend anything from GetYourGuide, which I have used numerous times across several countries and have always had a good experience.
When to Visit
My Top Pick (September–October): This is my absolute favorite time of year in Italy. The massive summer crowds start to thin, the weather tempers into a perfect "golden" warmth, and it’s officially harvest season.
The Shoulder Season (April–May): Having visited Florence in April, I was pleasantly surprised by how temperate the weather was (very similar to a spring day in San Francisco!). You’ll find better prices and fewer crowds than in the summer. It’s a great option for those who want to avoid the extreme heat and peak-season surges.
Peak Season (June–August): This is the busiest and hottest time of year. If you visit in August, keep in mind that many locals head to the coast for their own summer vacations, so you may find some smaller, family-owned restaurants closed for the month.
How Long to Stay: For a first-time visit, I recommend 2–3 nights in Florence. This gives you enough time for multiple days of sightseeing, leisurely meals, and plenty of opportunities to get lost in the city's charm without feeling rushed.
Local Pro-Tips
Plan for One Excursion per Day: Florence is a city to be savored, not rushed. While there are historic landmarks you definitely don't want to miss, I recommend booking no more than one "official tour" per day. This leaves half your day open for getting lost in the hidden alleys of the Oltrarno or lingering over a long lunch in a sun-drenched piazza.
Book Dining Reservations in Advance: Many popular Florentine trattorias book out weeks in advance, while others—like the famous panini shops—don't take reservations at all. For peace of mind, I recommend booking your "must-have" dinners ahead of time, while leaving your lunches open for local recommendations you discover while wandering.
Transportation (Wear Sneakers!): Florence is an incredibly walkable city, but the cobble stone streets are unforgiving. Opt for practical, stylish sneakers. I wore mine for 90% of the trip and only switched to flats when I knew we had a very short distance to walk to dinner.
The "Fontanelli" (Free Water): Like Rome, Florence has public "fontanelli" (water fountains) that flow with cold, delicious drinking water. You’ll even find a special one behind the Palazzo Vecchio that offers both still and sparkling water for free! Don't keep buying plastic bottles; bring a reusable one and refill it as you explore.
Cash is Still King: While most restaurants and shops in Florence now take cards, it is still beneficial to have Euros on hand for small cafes, family-run gelato shops, or artisan street vendors.
Pro Tip: We withdrew Euros at our local bank before leaving home to avoid high airport fees and ensure we had cash the moment we landed.
Tipping Culture: Tipping in Italy is not like in the U.S.; it is appreciated but never expected. Most restaurants include a "coperto" (cover charge), which is a small fee (usually €2–€4) per person listed on the menu to cover bread and service.
