Rome, Italy
FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO EAT, SIP, & SAVOR THEIR WAY THROUGH THE ETERNAL CITY
I’ve been fortunate enough to visit Rome twice now, but this second trip completely stole my heart. From exploring ancient ruins to savoring mind-blowing cuisine and wandering the cobblestone streets of Trastevere, it’s impossible not to fall in love with everything the Eternal City has to offer. Not to mention, this was my husband's very FIRST time to Europe which made the trip that much more special.
Welcome to Rome
Arrival: If you are flying internationally, Fiumicino (FCO) is your best bet; it’s located about 45 minutes from the city center. However, if you're already within Italy, I highly recommend the train—the national railway system is incredibly robust and efficient.
To get into the city, you can easily catch an Uber or pick up a rental car for longer road trips
A quick tip for rentals: The car terminal is about a 20-minute walk from the main gates. Also, double-check your transmission type! Manuals are the standard in Italy, and as I learned the hard way, they may not have an automatic available if you haven't specifically reserved one. (Thank goodness my husband can drive a manual!)
The Layout: Rome is a sprawling museum of a city, but the historic center is surprisingly walkable and concentrated within the ancient Aurelian Walls. The city is comprised of several distinct rioni (districts), including Centro Storico, Trastevere, Monti, and Prati, each offering a completely different energy. My personal favorites are Trastevere, for its ivy-covered buildings and lively, bohemian nightlife, and Centro Storico, for its breathtaking ancient architecture and the feeling of being right in the heart of Roman history.
Where to Stay
The Rome EDITION: Located just off the glamorous Via Veneto, this hotel blends sophisticated luxury with a cool, cinematic edge. Stay here if you want an ultra-chic home base that is steps away from the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, while enjoying a "see-and-be-seen" vibe complete with a lush outdoor garden bar and one of the most stunning rooftop pools in the city.
47 Boutique Hotel: Located in the heart of the Velabro district, this boutique hotel blends mid-century glamour with an unbeatable ancient Roman backdrop. Stay here if you want a sophisticated retreat that is steps away from iconic sites like the Bocca della Verità and the Roman Forum, while enjoying an elevated experience with a panoramic rooftop garden and themed rooms that celebrate Italian culture and design. This is where we stayed on our recent visit, and we absolutely loved the location—having ancient Roman ruins visible right outside our balcony was unforgettable.
Donna Camilla Savelli: Located in the heart of Trastevere, this 17th-century convent manages to feel grand yet intimate. Stay here if you want a romantic escape right in the middle of the Trastevere buzz. The rooftop terrace offers one of the best sunset views over Rome’s domes, and the internal garden is perfect for a slow morning coffee.
the gelato edit
Gelateria La Romana (Dal 1947): This was hands down the best gelato we had in Rome. The texture was incredibly silky, the flavors were deep and robust, and even the cones were noticeably fresh. It’s the gold standard for a reason.
Otaleg: Tucked away in the Trastevere neighborhood, this was our second favorite find. My husband opted for the pistachio while I went for the gianduja (chocolate + hazelnut), which we devoured as we wandered through the cobblestone streets. It’s artisanal, quaint, and perfectly captured the vibe of the area.
Giolitti: Arguably the most famous shop in Rome with a massive flavor selection, but surprisingly, it was my least favorite of the three. I found the texture lacked the creaminess of the others and noticed a slight aftertaste. It’s a classic "tourist staple," but for the best quality, I’d stick to the two above.
Lunch & Dinner Favorites
Da Enzo al 29: Our absolute best sit-down meal and worth the hype 10,000x over. I’m always skeptical of TikTok-famous restaurants, but this was hands down the winner of the trip—so good I’d fly back to Italy just to eat here again. Order: The burrata with fresh tomatoes to start, then share the Cacio e Pepe and the Amatriciana.
Tip: Arrive before they open (around 11:45am) to be the first seated and avoid a long queue
La Vita è un Mozzico: We still talk about this panino. Originally made famous by a Bobby Flay visit years ago, they are known for their incredible porchetta. We got the "Special"—porchetta, burrata, and fresh pistachio pesto on crisp, salty schiacciata bread. Get it and thank yourself later.
La Gattabuia: This was a local recommendation from our Colosseum guide and became one of our most memorable nights. Tucked away in Trastevere, you head down a flight of stairs into an authentic, boisterous Italian gem. Don't miss: The Cacio e Pepe, the lamb ribs, and the pistachio tiramisu (which I still dream about).
Mariuccia: Known for their wood-fired pizzas, this was our first stop after a 15-hour travel day and it hit the spot perfectly. It’s the ideal place to kick off your trip with a classic Margherita and a crisp Aperol Spritz.
Osteria da Fortunata: Famous on social media for the grandmothers making fresh pasta in the front window. While the pasta was definitely fresh and we enjoyed the atmosphere, we found it a bit overhyped compared to the other local spots on this list. Go for the "show" in the window, but keep your expectations tempered.
Rooftop Bars (Reservations recommended)
Oro Bistrot: Perched directly above the Imperial Forums, this sleek rooftop offers what might be the most dramatic "old meets new" view in the city. It’s sophisticated, intimate, and perfectly positioned for a glamorous break right in the heart of the action. Enjoy a sunset cocktail and aperitivo after a day of sightseeing in the ancient city.
The Court: If you want a front-row seat to the Colosseum, this is the place. Located within Palazzo Manfredi, it is widely considered one of the best cocktail bars in the world. It’s upscale and high-energy, offering an unbeatable perspective of Rome’s most iconic landmark as it lights up for the night.
Cielo Terrace: Perched atop the Spanish Steps at the Hotel de la Ville, this is the ultimate "see-and-be-seen" spot. With its iconic red-and-white striped umbrellas and lush greenery, it offers a chic, cinematic atmosphere and a breathtaking 360-degree view that stretches all the way to St. Peter’s Basilica.
Top Local Experiences
Colosseum Tour: We booked through GetYourGuide, which is always my go-to for travel experiences. We opted for the guided half-day tour and were completely captivated from start to finish. A huge bonus: our guide was a local Roman who gave us a full list of "insider" recommendations at the end of the tour!
The Trevi Fountain: You simply cannot go to Rome and not visit the Trevi. To truly experience its magic, I recommend making this the very first stop of your day (ideally before 8:00 or 9:00 AM). Arriving early is the only way to avoid the intense midday crowds and secure that perfect, unobstructed photo of you tossing a coin into the water.
The Vatican: For the history buff, this is a non-negotiable. This was my husband’s top request, and it didn’t disappoint. We chose a self-guided tour (also via GetYourGuide), which allowed us to take in the incredible scale and art of the museums at our own pace.
The Pantheon: Located right in the heart of the Centro Storico, the Pantheon is a marvel of ancient engineering. While we didn't go inside on this specific visit, you can easily grab tickets for €5 (approx. $5.50) to see the famous open oculus and the tomb of Raphael.
Food Tour: There is truly no better way to see a city than through its food! It’s the perfect way to discover hidden neighborhood gems you’d never find on your own while learning about the history behind the dishes.
Pro Tip: Book all your tours for the first time slot in the morning. Not only does this help you beat the heavy crowds and midday heat, but it also lets you get your "history fix" early so your afternoon is free for wandering and leisure.
When to Visit
My Top Pick (September–October): This is my absolute favorite time of year in Italy. The massive summer crowds start to thin, the weather tempers into a perfect "golden" warmth, and it’s officially harvest season.
The Shoulder Season (April–May): Having visited Rome in April, I was pleasantly surprised by how temperate the weather was (very similar to a spring day in San Francisco!). You’ll find better prices and fewer crowds than in the summer. It’s a great option for those who want to avoid the extreme heat and peak-season surges.
Peak Season (June–August): This is the busiest and hottest time of year. If you visit in August, keep in mind that many locals head to the coast for their own summer vacations, so you may find some smaller, family-owned restaurants closed for the month.
How Long to Stay: For a first-time visit, I recommend 3–4 nights in Rome. This gives you enough time for multiple days of sightseeing, leisurely meals, and plenty of time to get lost in the city's charm without feeling rushed.
Local Pro-Tips
Plan for One Excursion per Day: Rome is a city to be savored, not rushed. While there are historic landmarks you definitely don't want to miss, I recommend booking no more than one "official tour" per day. This leaves half your day open for getting lost in hidden alleys or lingering over a long lunch.
Book Dining Reservations in Advance: Many popular Roman restaurants book out weeks in advance, while others don't take reservations at all. For peace of mind, I recommend booking your "must-have" dinners ahead of time, while leaving your lunches open for local recommendations you discover along the way.
Transportation (Wear Sneakers!): Rome is a walking city, and the ancient cobblestones are unforgiving. Ditch the heels and opt for practical, stylish sneakers. I wore mine for 90% of the trip and only switched to flats when I knew we had a very short distance to walk.
The "Nasoni" (Free Water): Rome has over 2,000 historic street fountains called nasoni that flow with ice-cold, delicious drinking water. Don't keep buying plastic bottles. Bring a reusable one and refill it for free all over the city.
Cash is Still King: While many restaurants and shops now take cards, it is still essential to have Euros on hand for small cafes, gelato shops, or street vendors.
Pro Tip: We withdrew Euros at our local bank before leaving home to avoid high airport fees and ensure we had cash the moment we landed.
Tipping Culture: Tipping in Italy is not like in the U.S.; it is appreciated but never expected. Most restaurants include a "coperto" (cover charge), which is a small fee (usually €2–€4) listed on the menu to cover bread and service
