Yosemite National Park
The Ultimate yosemite Travel Guide
Those who have followed my recent luxury travels might be surprised to learn that the backbone of my youth was actually built on the rugged trails of Yosemite. Growing up, my dad, brother, and I would backpack through the stunning wilderness, sleeping directly under the stars—yes, sans tent. To keep those roots alive, my husband and I have spent the last four years making an annual trip back to The Valley for a weekend of grounding and hiking. Our home base is always our favorite stay, Evergreen Lodge.
Welcome to Yosemite
Arrival: While San Francisco (SFO) is the primary hub for international travelers (a 3.5 to 4-hour drive), Sacramento (SMF) is often a more convenient, lower-stress option for domestic flights.
The Layout: Yosemite National Park is widely known for “The Valley” where you can find iconic views of El Capitan, Half Dome, and Yosemite Falls. That being said, a slightly lesser traveled, although just as breathtaking part of Yosemite is Tuolumne Meadows, located in the high country. This is where we went growing up for a less touristy, more serene, experience, and is more of a “hidden gem” for those who visit often.
Where to Stay
Evergreen Lodge: Tucked just outside the park gates, Evergreen is our home base for every Yosemite escape. We’ve returned four years in a row - a significant testament considering our traveler mindset of rarely visiting the same place twice. It strikes the perfect balance: a deep connection to the outdoors without sacrificing modern comforts. (Keep scrolling for a deeper dive into why we love it...)
The Ahwahnee: Nestled in the heart of The Valley, this is undoubtedly Yosemite’s most elevated stay. While the historic grandeur is undeniable, we personally love it as a post-hike ritual—stopping by for a celebratory drink to soak in the atmosphere before retreating back to the quiet of Evergreen.
Curry Village: Also situated within The Valley, Curry Village offers a nostalgic, more traditional take on the camping experience. It’s an excellent, budget-friendly alternative for those who prioritize the convenience of being "park-side" without the premium price tag of The Ahwahnee.
Evergreen Lodge details
Number of nights: We’ve found that three nights is the "sweet spot" for us as this allows for one full day to explore the The Valley, a second day to head up to Tuolumne Meadows, and a final "free day" to slow down and enjoy the amenities around Evergreen.
Room Type: Glamping Tents and Cabins
Evergreen offers beautiful cabins, which we have also stayed in, however, we find ourselves repeatedly drawn to their newly revamped Glamping Tents. As someone who grew up sleeping on the ground (traditional camping style), there is really nothing better than returning from a grueling hike to a real, plush bed.
The Glamping Experience: Evergreen has truly elevated the camping concept. In addition to all of their onsite amenities, each tent is thoughtfully designed featuring:
Comforts: A remarkably soft bed with a fluffy comforter, nightstands, and a dedicated sitting corner with a mirror for getting ready.
Little Luxuries: A hanging rack for your gear and two private chairs out front—perfect for a morning coffee or evening wind-down.
The Bathhouse: The communal restrooms and showers are kept spotless and are fully heated. Plus, they’re stocked with lovely Douglas Fir-scented amenities that make you feel like you’re at a forest spa.
Cabin Experience: Ranging from single rooms to larger family layouts, these cabins are the heart of the lodge’s traditional charm. With their "classic lodge" interiors and cozy atmosphere, they offer a more refined alternative to glamping. They’re perfect for those who want to tuck away into the forest with a bit more privacy and modern comfort.
Food: The dining at Evergreen is a true standout—far exceeding what you’d expect from a wilderness retreat. The heart of the lodge is the original tavern, which has been pouring drinks since 1921, but the menu is anything but dated. The dishes are high-quality, creative, and remarkably elevated for the setting.
Dinner Favorites: We are always impressed by the unique flavor profiles they offer. Don't miss the Hot Honey Sandwich, the Mexican-inspired Grilled Pork Chop, or the Braised Short Rib finished with a sophisticated blueberry demi-glaze. Even the Burrata Salad is leveled up with the perfect crunch of crispy shallots.
Breakfast at the Tavern: Slow mornings at the lodge are a treat, featuring everything from a classic Eggs Benedict and a modern Avocado Toast to more indulgent options like their Lemon Poppyseed Pancakes. We typically save our sit-down breakfast for our final day, before starting our journey home
The General Store: For those seeking an early trail start, like we usually are, the General Store (conveniently attached to the lobby) is a lifesaver. It’s stocked with quick breakfasts like sandwiches and yogurt, plus all the provisions for a quintessential hiking lunch—premade sandwiches, jerky, trail mix, and more
Amenities & Leisure: Evergreen offers ample amenities to keep you entertained and relaxed during your stay. A few standout features that we love include:
The Pool & Hot Tub: In the summer, the poolside bar is open, making it the perfect spot to retreat after a day of hiking.
Classic Games: From Bocce Ball and Ping Pong outdoors to a Cozy Rec Center stocked with every board game imaginable, there’s never a dull moment.
Nightly Rituals: You haven’t truly experienced the lodge until the nightly s’mores by the fire.
Wellness & Music: For those looking to unwind, they offer on-site massage services and typically, a Summer Music Series featuring live performances under the trees.
Family Friendly: If you're traveling with little ones, the huge jungle gym is always a hit. We always remark on what a wonderland Evergreen is for kids and can’t wait to bring out future family
Our Favorite hikes in the valley
The Mist Trail: This is arguably Yosemite’s most iconic hike, and for good reason. During the spring, the power of the waterfalls is breathtaking. You can choose how far you’d like to go on this trail: stop at the misty base of Vernal Fall, or push upward to Nevada Fall for a more robust, panoramic view of The Valley.
Upper Yosemite Falls: This hike is a serious workout with an even better payoff. This trail takes you to the top of the tallest waterfall in North America. It’s strenuous, featuring switchbacks that offer bird’s-eye views of The Valley floor before rewarding you with an incredible look over the edge of the falls.
Note: In the late summer, this trail gets alot of sun. You will definitely want to pack extra water, a hat/visor, and sunscreen.
The Four Mile Trail: This trail leads you from The Valley floor up to Glacier Point. It is arguably the most scenic climb in the park, offering "front-row seats" to El Capitan and Half Dome. Just know that at the top of this hike, there is a general store where you can buy ice cream as a reward!
A Note on Difficulty: I would rate all three of these hikes as Hard. Yosemite’s most rewarding trails involve significant elevation gain and steep switchbacks. Keep in mind that the high altitude makes these climbs feel even more strenuous than they look on paper so it’s important to be prepared, pace yourself and stay hydrated.
Panorama Trail: Usually started from Glacier Point and hiked downhill into The Valley, this trail passes Illilouette Fall, Panorama Point, and the top of Nevada Fall. It offers a serene energy compared to the crowded Valley floor, providing a long, wandering trail with incredible views of Half Dome.
our favorite hikes in tuolumne
Lembert Dome: This is the perfect "recovery day" hike. Located in Tuolumne Meadows, it’s a manageable climb that offers a wonderful view of the surrounding landscape. It’s a great way to experience the scale of the park at a much more leisurely pace.
Tip: After your descent, take a short drive to one of the many nearby lakes for a scenic lunch.
Cathedral Lakes: If you only have time for one hike in the High Country, let it be this one. This trail holds a special place in my heart—I remember backpacking here vividly as a child. Returning to these alpine lakes as an adult feels like a true full-circle moment; it is just as breathtaking and serene today as it was back then.
Top Local Experiences (not hiking)
Tunnel View: This is the view that makes you realize you’ve officially made it to the park. As soon as you pop out of the Wawona Tunnel, the whole Valley opens up in front of you. You have stunning views of El Cap, Half Dome, and Bridalveil Fall - all in one frame.
Watch Rock Climbers on El Capitan: Head over to the El Capitan Meadow, bring some binoculars, and look up. El Cap truly takes my breath away every time I see it. It’s hard to wrap your head around how massive the 3,000-foot face of "El Cap" really is until you spot the tiny little specks of climbers hanging off the side. It still blows my mind that people free climb El Cap..
Bike the Valley Floor: Biking is arguably the best way to see The Valley without the hassle of shuttle buses or traffic. There are miles of paved, flat paths that take you through meadows, under the spray of waterfalls, and past iconic landmarks. It’s a breezy, fun way to cover a lot of ground. You can rent bikes in Curry Village.
Check out the chapel: The Yosemite Valley Chapel is a charming piece of history. Built in 1879, it’s the oldest standing structure in The Valley.
Raft the Merced river: During the early summer (June & July), you can rent a raft and drift along the merced river. This is a relaxed alternative to some of the strenuous surrounding hiking options.
When to Visit
Best Time for Waterfalls: May and June - This is prime time for the park. The snowmelt and waterfalls are absolutely at their peak. Spring is in the air and the winter chill is starting to wear off.
A note on visiting in April: We just got back from a visit at the end of April and while the waterfalls were rushing, it was still quite cold, especially in the evening. We also had a day of rain and Tioga Pass, which takes you up to Toulumne, was not open yet. While there were little crowds, I’d personally hold off until May in the future for warmer weather.
Best Time for thinning crowds: September - If you want to skip the peak summer rush, September is my favorite time to visit. You’re past the craziest crowds, but the weather is still gorgeous with warm summer nights. The waterfalls have mostly dried up by this point, but the granite views will still blow you away.
How long to visit: For a first trip, I’d recommend 3 to 4 nights. This gives you enough time to do a deep dive into The Valley floor, head up to the high country in Tuolumne, and still have a relaxed recovery day at the lodge to just soak it all in.
packing essentials
I’m a minimalist at heart, so I’m not going to hit you with a long, expensive shopping list before your trip. That said, there are a few non-negotiables I’d recommend for anyone visiting Yosemite. These aren't just for comfort - they’re really about staying safe. Everything I have purchased for our Yosemite trips over the years is linked here.
Hiking Boots: This is my #1 non-negotiable. On our first visit, we didn’t have them and regretted it almost immediately. The trails are steep, rocky, and full of switchbacks. Proper ankle support is a must to avoid injuries. For what it’s worth, mine are a budget-friendly find from Amazon and have lasted three years in perfect condition.
Hydration (Camelback or Backpack): Yosemite gets surprisingly hot in the summer, and when you combine that with the high elevation, dehydration happens fast. Make sure you have a way to carry more water than you think you’ll need.
Hat or Visor: The sun is much more intense at higher altitudes. A good hat is your best friend when you’re exposed on a granite dome with zero shade.
A Lightweight Shell or Windbreaker: Even if it’s 80°F in The Valley, it can be 20 degrees cooler (and very windy) once you hike up to Glacier Point or Tuolumne. A packable layer is a lifesaver.
Electrolyte Packets: Throwing a couple of Liquid I.V. or Nuun tablets in your bag is a game-changer for those high-elevation "Hard" hikes you mentioned.
Is Yosemite worth it?
Getting to Yosemite can definitely be a trek if you aren't local, but it is, without a doubt, one of the most breathtaking places on earth. As I mentioned earlier, we’re the type of travelers who rarely visit the same place twice—our "must-see" list is just too long.
But for Yosemite, I will always make an exception.
There is nowhere else I feel quite as grounded or at peace as when I’m out exploring The Valley and the High Country. Yosemite has a unique way of taking your breath away; it makes you feel incredibly small, yet strangely empowered at the same time. Whether you're there to soak in the views or to lose yourself in a rigorous hike, it’s a California gem that truly belongs on everyone's bucket list.
